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Beginner Resource Hub!
This post aims to draw together a bunch of research that helped me get started cubing, pulling on advice from other cubers, resources on this subreddit, and external articles. The idea is to cover the basics, answer the FAQs and collate links to other resources for further reading. (please bear in mind this is a round up of advice through the lens of my own bias, I am not claiming any advice here to be the way thingsshouldbe done, just to provide a starting point to people who don’t yet know how thingscouldbe done)
Post breakdown:
0 - What is a Cube?
1 - Quick Start
2 - Detailed Start
3 - Extras
4 - Resource Hub
0 - WHAT IS A CUBE?:
“A cube is a ... collection of (often powerful) cards used for drafting and playing Limited. Drafting a cube is similar to drafting booster packs, but instead of drafting from three fifteen-card Magic booster packs, you draft from fifteen-card "packs" that you create from your cube.” - Building Your First Cube) Tolarian Community College - What is a Magic: The Gathering Cube? How many players do I need to play my cube?: Cube can be enjoyed with anywhere between 2-8 players. A brilliant summary of different draft methods for different player counts can be found here
1 - QUICK START:
So you like the look of cube and want to get started playing the best limited format ASAP? Here are some of the easiest ways to start building and playing Cube:
Pull together 360 cards you already own into a Cube, following the rough colour balance guidelines in the WotC “Building Your First Cube” article
Purchase a premade cube (links in the resource hub)
Copy or gain inspiration from some of the most popular cubes (links in the resource hub)
If you decide to build your own first cube, as long as you have reasonably even colour sections and a curves similar to what you might want to draft in retail limited you will produce an environment that will be a blast to play. Other early facets you may wish to explore are:
Card power delta - i.e. how much stronger your strongest card is compared to your weakest. Typically cube design aims to cut out the draft chaff found in retail limited so that all packs contain fun and playable cards.
Archetypes you enjoy - e.g. if you enjoy Madness and graveyard interaction cards, building a cube environment that supports this type of gameplay is a worthwhile goal!
Cards you enjoy but not sure whether they fit - Just jam 'em in. It’s not necessary to worry too much about individual card balance early on. Actually playing with the cards in the cube will be the best way to inform decision making.
Remember, you can always add and remove cards as you see fit. It’s not necessary to agonise over individual card choice at this point (although of course you may if that floats your boat). CubeCobra is the community favourite cube management website. It is similar to existing decklist websites (mtggoldfish etc.), but made specifically for cube. It has all sorts of tools for managing, analysing and playtesting your cube, and is invaluable for a cube designer. Playing your cube: Playing paper magic is currently challenging to impossible depending on where you are in the world. See the Resource Hub for ways to play your cube online. Bonus Link - Lucky paper - How and why to build a cube (podcast)
2 - DETAILED START:
To help make this section more searchable/digestible I’ve split it into what I’d consider to be the key elements to think about when building your first cube:
2.1 Size
2.2 Power & Removal
2.3 Curve and Cardtype Balance
2.4 Archetypes
2.5 Signposting
2.6 Gold count
2.7 Nonbasic lands
2.8 Colourless
2.9 Colourless Ramp
2.10 Singleton or Not?
2.11 Board State
2.12 Devotion
2.13 First Cube
2.1 SIZE: The size of your cube affects a number of factors, such as card density, number of players, variation between drafts, cohesion of archetypes etc. Typical cube sizes are multiples of 180 (as they divide nicely into 15 card packs)
180: Normally the minimum cube size one should build, it will support only 4 players drafting or 2 players sealed, and will provide a low variation in each draft. The pros of a 180 cube are that they can be used to support archetypes difficult to play at higher card counts, provide a draft consistency useful for teaching new players, are cheaper to build and sleeve, and can be more easily transported.
360: The /standard/ cube size, supporting a full 8 player draft pod or 4 players sealed and provides twice the variation per draft! This is my recommended size for a first cube. It should provide easily enough variation for long lasting fun, without being an unwieldy first project.
450: Often used as a stepping stone above 360 to introduce further variation into the cube (still drafted in 8 man pods), and to allow more sealed players and alternate draft methods.
540+: For further variation in 8 man pods, or support for two 8 man pods at higher card counts.
2.2 POWER (and power consistency): How powerful do you want the contents of your cube to be?u/land_of_Mordor has written up a brilliant shorthand for differentiating cube power levels here This scale ranges from 1 (Retail limited) to 10 (Fully powered, absolute strongest cards in magic the gathering) It is important to consider power consistency when building your cube. Ideally most of your cards ought to sit at a roughly equal power band to provide fun and fair gameplay. For an extreme example, a cube that runs sol ring (found in ~strix 8+) should not include drastically lower power cards such as celestial prism (and vice versa). Ideally you don’t want situations where your drafters win because they have the “better” cards than their opponent. Cube is an opportunity to move away from the chaff/bombs divide present in retail limited. A useful tool for gauging the balance in your cube after building it is to use the filters in CubeCobra to sort your cube by “Elo” and scrutinise any outliers. The elo system ranks cards by recording each card picked against every other card passed in a pack. <1000 elo is very low >2000 elo is incredibly high (power 9 sit in this spot). Due to how elo is calculated it doesn’t take into account:
Your environment - A card with low elo but important to a synergy in your cube may well be a high pick bomb in your environment
Card “power” - Elo is a reflection of how early drafters pick cards. In a cube draft, assessment value is often given by players to cards that allow them to fix mana, ramp or stay open. For this reason, the Elo of a card such as arbor elf is significantly higher than dragonlord atarka
In summary, Elo is a useful tool to flag outliers, but individual card merit should still be assessed by the cube designer in the environment they are creating. 2.2(a) REMOVAL: Removal in cube plays a significant role in how your environment functions and its overall power level. Density and efficiency are the main dials of removal that can be tweaked to adjust your format.
Low density - Removal becomes a premium. Threats stick to the board for longer. Baneslayers are more viable
High density - Mulldrifters become a premium / Baneslayers are less viable. Less focus on creature combat.
Low efficiency - Aggro has a greater window to get “under” the other players.
High efficiency - Threats need to be cheap and provide high value to not be outclassed by cheap removal.
Ideally density and efficiency of removal should reflect the rest of your cube. For example, high efficiency high density removal is best suited to environments that have very efficient threats. Efficiency can be adjusted by raising/lowering the CMC of removal spells (Murder vs Daring Demolition), deciding on instant vs sorcery, or including removal with restrictions/drawbacks (Bone Splinters) Attaching removal to bodies increases both density and efficiency. E.g. Ravenous Chupacabra Density can otherwise be adjusted by increasing/decreasing the removal card count in your environment. 2.3 CURVE AND CARD TYPE BALANCE: Character limit -I'll put this section in a comment. 2.4 ARCHETYPES: You may wish to decide on supported archetypes at the inception of your cube, or allow them to present themselves through play of your quick start cube. Archetype support is a tricky beast, many cube designers have differing opinions on how (or even if) archetype support should be implemented. Two main axis that archetype support can be measured on are “Parasitism” and “Weight” "Parasitism in cube" video and thread Parasitic strategies work within their own defined bounds, don’t care much about other cards, and are underperformers/useless outside of their strategy.
Mill and tribal can be examples of parasitic archetypes.
Medium parasitic cards might be fringe playable outside their intended strategy e.g. Auramancer
Low parasitic cards are playable in multiple shells but shine in their desired archetype. E.g. Galvanic Blast
Running cards that have a good floor (i.e. worst case scenario) but improve in your chosen archetypes is a good way to reduce parasitism in your cube. Additionally, running cards that fit multiple archetypes can be desirable e.g. Rimrock Knight is useful to mono R aggro, spells matters, and weenies “Weight” is the term I’m giving to the measurement of how prominent each archetype is in each colour. A lower weight may allow for more organic strategies to develop in your draft environment A higher weight may result in drafters feeling like they are being pushed to do what you "want" them to do For example if you run 20 Prowess creatures in red and white, players may feel obliged to lean into the strategy given to them instead of having the agency to build their own unique deck. Where your cube sits on the Parasitism/Weight scale will be personal to you, and will likely change as you develop and adjust your cube. You and your playgroup's enjoyment can help drive these decisions. u/Japahn has an excellent article here on archetype design in cube. 2.5 SIGNPOSTING: Signpost cards are cards that support and communicate the presence of a strategy to drafters. These can be used effectively to help players understand what is possible in your cube. For example, if a player opens a pack and sees Thermo Alchemist and/or Talrand, Sky Summoner they might reasonably believe that a “Spellslinger” theme is present in your cube. In the same line of thinking, it can be worth avoiding false signposts that lead players to believe a strategy or theme is present that actually doesn’t exist. For example one half of the blood combo without the other, or otherwise playable cards that suggest a strategy that doesn’t exist e.g. Champion of Dusk without vampire tribal. You may even consider eliminating one-off mechanics for comprehension. E.g. I cut Aether hub in favour of Tendo Ice Bridge after a drafter was disappointed that Energy wasn’t a present mechanic in the cube. Gold cards are a good opportunity to show your drafters some of the strategies possible in each colour combination. This should feel familiar to players, as WotC employs the same design in their retail sets. 2.6 GOLD COUNT: Gold cards can be very fun, they act as good signposts and are often players’ & designers’ favourite cards. The temptation to include lots of gold cards is high among beginning cube designers for these reasons, however a lower count is generally more beneficial for the environment. Fundamentally, gold cards are relevant to far fewer players and have a tendancy to wheel around the table before landing with a player who doesn’t want them. For example, a Lightning Helix is very relevant to your Boros drafter (if there even is one this session), lightly relevant to your Naya/Jeskai/Mardu drafters (if there are any) and irrelevant to everyone else. In contrast Lightning Strike is relevant to ⅕ of your Mono colour drafters. 5/10 of your 2 colour drafters and 6/10 of your 3 colour drafters. Someone at your table will be playing red, and this card is guaranteed to be relevant and desirable. More cards able to be played by more people in more strategies = more agency for your drafters 20-30 gold cards in 360 anecdotally works very nicely. 2.7 NONBASIC LANDS: Good fixing in cube is crucial to help games run smoothly. Not being able to play magic due to mana screw is one of the least enjoyable aspects of the game. Good fixing reduces the number of feel bad games your drafters experience due to poor variance. 30-40 lands in 360 cards will help ensure the games are more enjoyable for everyone. Unfortunately, good lands can be expensive, but proxy printing/sharpie changes can solve this issue! (proxy resource links below) (it is worth noting a risk of too much fixing is that everyone is able to draft 5 colour piles of the best cards(this may still happen even at lower land count if 7 of your drafters ignore the fixing and one player snaps up 20 lands)) 2.8 COLOURLESS: Colourless cards are effectively “free” picks for your drafters, allowing them to remain open in the draft while providing powerful effects. Fun utility cards and curve filling creatures are perfect candidates for the colourless section. Due to the “free” nature of colourless cards, you may wish to balance them in such a way that they don’t outclass your coloured cards. 2.9 COLOURLESS RAMP: Colourless ramp such as Sol Ring and Dimir Signet allow your drafters to cheat past the early stages of the game. Be very cautious about including cheap colourless ramp in any lower powered environment. Reasons to be careful:
Strong ramp can invalidate aggro
If you want ramp to be part of Green’s identity, colourless ramp can invalidate it (or reduce its uniqueness)
It can cause swingy games based on variance - Opponent plays a T1 sol ring and you have no ramp. You’re almost guaranteed to lose
A rough guide for rocks that produce 1 mana:
0-1CMC rocks (Moxen/Sol Ring) - Powered cubes only (Strix 9-10)
2 CMC rocks (Signets/Talismans/Diamonds) - Medium cubes (Strix 5-8)
3+ CMC rocks (Crystals/Lockets/Cluestones) - Lower power cubes (Strix 0-4)
Don’t be fooled by “enters tapped” clauses. Sphere of the Suns is still likely too strong for a low powered cube. Bonus: Rock List 2.10 SINGLETON OR NOT?:
Singleton Pros:
Higher variety of cards
More unique mechanics
Draft decks will contain all unique cards
Aesthetically pleasing to some
Singleton Cons:
Higher complexity for newer players (learning 360 new cards in a single draft can be a lot)
Some strategies may require a higher density of a certain effect at a certain CMC to be viable (i.e. you decide your cube needs 2x reanimate in order to help the deck be consistent enough)
Breaking singleton is a fine thing to do, but typically is only worth doing to fulfil a design goal that can’t be achieved by another unique card. A common singleton break is for nonbasic lands, as cube designers often want to provide the best possible fixing for their drafters. The first iteration of my cube broke singleton in a few places and it was fine, but very quickly I felt like I was wasting slots that I'd rather use to increase variety and replayability. Interesting write-up on breaking singleton by u/Karametric 2.11 BOARD STATE: Do you want a front heavy (i.e. 3/2 creatures) or a back heavy (i.e. 2/3 creatures) board state? This article discusses the advantages of a front heavy board state. I won’t repeat the detail of this article here as I’ve nothing extra to add, but the main point is that a front heavy board allows for meaningful attacks and reduces board stalls. 2.12 DEVOTION: Cards with a high colour devotion (i.e. multiple coloured pips in their casting cost) are more difficult to cast by more of your drafters. For example Knight of the White Orchid can only reliably be cast on curve by a mono white (or heavily white) deck. Cards with low CMC and high devotion are particularly problematic, as finding 2 white by turn 2 in a Selesnya deck is a lot harder than finding 2 white by turn 5 to cast Regal Caracal. When designing with this in mind, high devotion cards can be used to tune the accessibility & viability of 3+ colour decks. 2.13 FIRST CUBE: u/Fleme’s write up on assessing your first cube was a massive boon for reviewing the first cube I built. Reading this before and/or after building your cube should provide lots of useful insight.
3 EXTRA
Cube Costs: Within reason, cube can be as expensive or cheap as you want it to be. Here’s a quick breakdown of costs associated with cube:
FREE - Playing a CubeCobra list exclusively online
FREE - Playing with cards you already own
~$35 - 550 Sleeves required for 360 cards + 34 of each basic land
Variable - Cost of singles bought for the cube. Your design goals and tolerance for proxies dictate this.
Proxying (Requires sleeves):
Free - Printing on any printer you have free access to (University/work etc.)
Variable - Printing at home, cost variable on printeink/card stock
~$0.25/card - Online printing services
$10 - $200 - Storage
4 RESOURCE HUB
A hub for cube and draft resources! Many of the resources below have been discussed and analysed in a vast number of different articles/videos/podcasts. If any one topic takes your interest, a quick google will almost always lead you to more content on a topic. E.g. Quadrant theory has been analysed by a plethora of different players on many platforms. One just has to google. Sidebar: The sidebar on the right of this subreddit contains lots of useful links to podcasts/discord channels/popular threads etc. Check out what it has to offer.(If you are on mobile, sidebar links can be accessed by scrolling to the top of the subreddit and pressing the "about" button in the right/centre of the page) How to draft:
Quadrant Theory - A method for evaluating cards, useful for design and play within your cube.
Draft evaluation in cube - This video focuses on how to draft cube more effectively, and in turn contains information that can be very useful when considering your design.
How to shuffle:
Fully randomising your cube by regular thorough shuffling is normal and provides good gameplay.
Dr4ft.info - Draft tool with cube support and pack size, pick number, draft speed, and bot options. Produces savable draft logs + deck lists for importing elsewhere
Untap.in - Promising looking for drafting and playing in browser, but anecdotally have encountered issues with cards that refuse to load or produce errors. Hopefully this will be fixed in future. (Limited draft options)
Tabletop Simulator - A simulator that allows you to play board/card games as in real life
New to online Slots? - Starter guide/tips for newbies playing online slots
Okay so I decided to create this guide with the hopes of it becoming a sticky thread for all newbies to the online slots world, to read as we deal with the same topics repeatedly and the same answers/advice are given repeatedly. Not that we do not want to help, but these would prevent you from getting into situations before its too late, or blaming casinos when you were in the wrong. Signing up or Registration Registration – Please carefully read the general terms and conditions about every "Right" the casino has and please note that you accepted these terms upon signing up, which means you are saying you are okay with it and agree with what the casino state about what they can and cannot do.
No Deposit bonuses/Signup bonus – Many players are still NDB (No Deposit Bonus) hunters and register simply for these reasons. Please read the NDB/Signup Bonus terms carefully to make sure your country is eligible to receive the NDB/Signup bonus. We had many players getting upset about this factor and then end up closing their accounts immediately out of anger which leads to SE (Self Exclusion) at times. which I will address later in this thread. However, we do have instances where a casino does not list the eligible countries that can or cannot receive the NDB/Signup bonuses.
More than one player in 1 house Hold – Many casinos only allow one player per house/IP address to register at a casino. You can ask a casino if you and your partnesibling who stays together can both signup and some casinos would give the "Ok". Just make sure you have this in written confirmation via email or something and not live chat.
Claiming Bonuses Read the bonus terms carefully before claiming any bonuses and look for the following pointers when reading the bonuses rules:
Wagering – Many casinos have increased their wagering on bonuses lately which makes bonus wagering very difficult to complete these days. Decide whether the wagering attach to the bonus is high or low for you since you know your game play and strategies. Many factors can influence whether you will be able to meet wagering, which is the x amount of wagering, game providers availability and deposit amount just to name a few. Also note that wagering for "certain countries" are higher than others. For me personally I think wagering between x35 – x50 on the "Bonus" amount "Only" is reasonable and fair.
Max Bet – 99% of casinos have a max bet rule in place when claiming a bonus. Note what the max bet is for the specific casinos as it can range anything from 1 – 5 euro/$ per Spin. Deposit methods can affect the max bet as well as some casinos limit the max bet rule between 1 – 2 euro per spin for deposits using e-wallets, however that same casinos allow a max bet up to 5 euro per spin for credit card/Alternative deposits. Even though a casino state the max bet rule another tricky rule in the terms that we tend to miss is the coin value. Some casinos state that the max "Coin domination/value" should be $0.20 or $0.50 per spin which means if you want to bet higher you would need to adjust the "Level" portion in the slot if the coin domination/value limit is reached according to the terms. If you breach the Max bet rule and it is stated in their terms, you do not have a case, period. There are some casinos who you can explain your situation if it was a mistake and they do sometimes make exceptions.
Deposit methods – Many casinos lately have restricted the claiming of bonuses using e-wallet deposit methods such as Neteller, Skrill etc. Note they mention these 2 as they are most popular, but that also means any other form of e-wallets are not eligible to claim bonuses. I have seen a lot of players complain that they did not receive the bonus simply because they did not read the terms before claiming the bonus and the deposit has already been made. Also make sure you deposit using your own card, do not use your parents or any other siblings credit card to make deposits as this would cause a problem during verification which in the end results in to winnings not being paid out.
Deposit Methods Additional Info – Many deposits are available from Casinos or let's say most casinos have the same deposit methods available, however the country that you reside in has the influence on what deposit methods are available and the same counts for withdrawals. So, for instance if AskGamblers website state deposit by phone which is "Boku" is available at that specific casino it does not mean that it will be available for all players, as that is depending on your country. Deposit by phone is mostly available for the UK players basically as an example.
Max Cash-Out – Many players claim bonuses and after they complete wager, they tend to withdraw immediately. Some players are left with substantial amounts only to find out they can only get x2 the bonus amount (Casinos like "Viks" casino and "Quasar Gaming" have this rule) or x10 their deposit. I understand this is frustrating and upsetting, but the problem is with the player itself. Stop blaming casinos because you could not do the simplest thing in the world which is just take 5 minutes to read the bonus terms.
Restricted games – Please check which games are allowed and not allowed to be played with bonus funds. Some casinos have a feature where bonus money is not even visible on the restricted games, but other casinos bonus money will show on restricted games. In many instances these would not lead to confiscation of winnings, it just that it would not count towards wagering. They also have a term where they would say that bets place on all "Other" games other that "Slot machines" will be deemed in violation of the terms and condition and your bonus winnings will be voided – So watch out for this one.
Double up feature – The only thing to say here is that this will not counts towards wagering.
Cashable and Non-Cashable bonuses – This one is another tricky one, some people call it a "Sticky bonus". This just means where you receive the bonus you can use it to place bets and for wagering purposes, but the bonus amount can never be withdrawn. I find this term ridiculous and always avoid this type of bonuses.
Bonus Abuse – This is a very complex/broad subject but mention the basic ones (Thanks for forum members tips which I included on this one), the rest you can do your own research about the rest associated with bonus abuse as we all have different opinions
Bonus per player, per account, per IP address etc. If you take that same bonus twice or more times, using different accounts under your name, then it's an abuse.
Claiming free spins offers – Deposit to get free spins and withdrawing deposit after claiming free spins but continue to play free spins is also some form of bonus abuse.
Accumulating bonus rounds and start playing them when your bonus balance reach zero, and you win those money as real cash.
Anything you can think of that disadvantages the house (Casino).
Bonus wagering period – This never really is a problem, but just make sure you complete you bonus wagering with the set time frame the casino provided. This can range anything from 3 – 30 days otherwise winnings will be voided.
There are other bonus terms that I have not mentioned but I think the above ones are the most important as these could affect you in terms of confiscation of your winnings should you breach any of them. Verification This is pretty much standard for a casino to ask for some form of Identification, proof of address and proof of deposit when requesting a withdrawal. Depending on the amount win, some casinos might not need documents, however when a substantial amount has been won additional verification or security checks might be done which means a longer withdrawal time frame. Verification or KYC is necessary, however I feel when casinos ask for selfies with your ID next to you etc. in my opinion is just ridiculous. Also, I have noticed some casinos requesting your source of income to see where you get the money to make deposits etc. This seems standard and you would need to do it to get your withdrawal, however all of us have different opinions about this verification procedure. Withdrawals Many casinos have different withdrawal time frames and when you accept the general terms and conditions you have to a abide by them, by this I mean stop being impatient and complain that the casinos withdrawal time frames are the worst etc. As you knew this before you started playing provided you have read the terms and condition. You decided to deposit and play so then wait for your money, eventually it will come unless you breached some rule, or the casino is a rogue casino. Here are some of the tips you should note when it comes to withdrawals at casinos:
Verification – This is standard procedure and you have to do this if the casino request it.
Time-frames – This one I feel can be interpreted in many ways but let me give you my version of how I View things. When a casino says e-wallets 0 – 1 or 0 – 24 hours. This means that the casinos use that time-frame to process your withdrawal and after it being processed your money should be instantly available. Credit cards that state 3 – 7 business days and this is where some newbies get this wrong – This simply state the time frame they take to process the payment to your card, it does not mean you will get your money within 3 – 7 days, however this is possible. Prepare yourself for the longest waiting period to avoid becoming impatient and upset – So if a casino says 3 – 7 days expect to get it in 10 days max, however you can get it within 4 days, but sometimes casinos just stretch it to process it on the last day possible with the hopes you would reverse the withdrawal and continue to play. This technique of casinos sometimes works. So, if they process your withdrawal it can take another 3 – 5 days to hit your account based on your location and the banks in your country as they have internal controls with foreign currency. There are however hiccups with payment providers/processors etc. but these are at times out of the casinos control. My best is advice is "Patience".
Reversing Withdrawals – With the timeframes explanation I just gave above and being impatient, players tend to reverse their withdrawals. They continue playing and end up losing their winnings. Stop blaming casinos as this is your own fault that you Lost the funds. You made the decision to reverse the withdrawal. If you really need to play, make a deposit at another casino or sister website and play there while you patiently wait for you withdrawal. Some casinos have the lock feature, so lock down your withdrawal so you do not reverse the withdrawal or play at other casinos which has quicker withdrawal time frames of 0 – 1 hour instead of days. The key here is "Patience".
Self-Exclusion Self-Exclusion is a big thing these days and most cases substantial amounts are involved that are being confiscated. There are at times very little that us forum members or even AskGamblers can do when a player self-excluded and played at a sister website or similar, as we know the result and of course the house is kind of right. However, I think it's bad that a casino only realizes the self-exclusion portion on a player profile once it reaches withdrawal stage, because I feel they should have something in place that can detect that you self-excluded upon registration or before you even make your first deposit. People with gambling problems tend to self-exclude but the alternative is to read this guide - https://www.askgamblers.com/forum/topic/2152-sos-i-am-addicted-to-gambling-what-to-do/ . My advice is to keep your casino account open and do not play there anymore, because even if you request a permanent account closure, some casinos tend to self-exclude you without you knowing it and this would cause problems in future since you opened another account at their sister website or something.
A big thanks to the 2055 of you who took a moment to complete the recent golf 2020 census. This is a tremendous response and should provide a reasonable sample size among active users of this sub. Caveat: while my IRL work has a lot to do with digital media and numbers, I am no data scientist or Excel whiz, so I'm sure this isn't quite as good as it could be, but it's all I have time to do with now! So without further ado, here are the results (and I have made the data available here if anyone wants to take a peek or slice and dice it for themselves). You can view natively in your browser, or simply click the 'download' button in the top right. I might edit this later with some more findings, but that's enough for now! I'll be really interested to know what you think. What results surprise you? What results were you sure of? Please post and discuss your feedback! 1. How old are you? The average age of golf is 30.01 years. It's also the most common age selected in the census with 144 of you identifying as exactly 30 years old, 135 of you identifying as 31 and 134 identifying as 28 years. The oldest respondent is 72 (and has a handicap of 5). The youngest respondent was 13, which is the minimum age to have a reddit account, which is why I cut it off there. The two 13-year-olds identify as being off 12 and 6 handicaps. Just 108 of the sample size are teenagers, representing a mere of 5.26% of respondents. 2. What is your gender? A whopping 98.2% of us identify as male and just 1.1% female. I knew this sub was heavily skewed to men, but that's a LOT more than I expected. 3. What is your relationship status? 41.9% of this sub is married, 29.7% are in a relationship and 27.5% are single. The average handicap of married golfers is 17.0, single 17.5 while golfers in a relationship are 18.4, suggesting this latter category is prioriting other matters in life :) 0.8% of married golfers and 1.1% of both single and golfers in relationship are better than scratch players 4. Where do you live? 79.7% of you live in the United States Canada is second with 8.1% and the UK third with 4.4%. The top 10 is:
Country
Count
USA
1637
Canada
166
UK
90
Australia
27
Sweden
26
Ireland
23
New Zealand
11
Norway
10
Germany
8
Netherlands/Denmark/Finland
7
There are single representatives from Antigua, the Bahamas, Dominican Republic, Georgia, Greece, Grenada, Iceland, Italy, Mexico, Oman, Pakistan, Poland, Romania and Thailand. 5. In which US state do you live? Here is where the Americans among us live:
State
Count
California
171
Texas
108
New York
88
Illinois
69
Pennsylvania
63
Massachusetts/Ohio
62
Georgia
69
Florida/Michigan
58
Virginia
56
Minnesota
54
The states with the fewest golfers are Delaware and Montana (2 each) while Vermont and Wyoming each have 4 representatives on golf according to this census. 6. What is your current handicap? (rounded to the nearest whole number) According to this census, the average handicap or golf is slightly lower than 17.5 (slightly lower as there are 20 players who identify as better than scratch, but were counted as 0 for the purposes of this average). 7. Recently,my handicap has been... 1262 (61.35%) of you have been reducing your handicaps lately - well done! 8.81% of you need to stop the recent rise in your handicap 29.84% of you are remaining relatively unchanged/consistent 8. My status as a golfer is... The vast majority of us (96.15%) are amateur players/weekend hackers while there are at least 8 current professionals among us, 3 former pros and 68 aspiring pros 9. What would you say is your preferred brand of club? I appreciate this question didn't suit everyone, as putters are different to irons as wedges are different to drivers - you might like a brand in one club, but loathe it in another. Without wanting to make this survey too in-depth, I think the below table is a decent snapshot of golf's preferred club brands (and really sorry I forgot about the PXG crew!)
Brand
# that express it as 'favorite'
TaylorMade
532
Callaway
380
Mizuno
303
Titleist
270
Ping
218
Cobra
126
Cleveland
46
Wilson
46
Nike
39
Srixon
32
Ben Hogan
20
Adams
13
Miura
9
Dunlop
6
Bridgestone
4
MacGregor
4
Bettinardi
2
Honma
2
Vulcan
2
Obviously a lot to unpack here and there a LOT of variables. Of particular interest is the love for a now defunct golf brand (Nike) ahead of leading brands such as Srixon and Miura. Also, there is a noticeable drop-off from Ping to Cobra and an even greater one from Cobra to Cleveland. When you isolate the data to those with a 0 or better handicap, the results look like this: TaylorMade (9) Titleist (7) Callaway (3) Mizuno (3) Ping (3) Cleveland (2) Miura (1) Nike (1) 10. Do you prefer to mix or match? 19.57% prefer to match your sets while 80.43% don't mind what's in the bag, as long as it works for you. 11. What brand of ball do you primarily play?
Brand
Number who play it
Titleist
462
Whatever I find in my bag or the woods
290
Callaway
249
TaylorMade
211
Srixon
194
Bridgestone
170
Kirkland
121
Vice
119
Snell
79
Wilson
39
Nike
21
Top Flite
19
Oncore
16
Maxfli
13
Inesis
8
Volvik
8
Mizuno
7
Pinnacle
6
Noodle
3
Seed
2
Sugar
2
Slazenger
2
OtheVarious
12
12. Do you think the ball you play has a significant impact on your game? 37.59% of you think it's VERY important 19.40% of you don't think it matters at all 43.01% don't mind, as long as it's a ball by a 'leading' manufacturer 17/20 of BETTER than scratch golfers said that ball choice is critical. The only surprising thing about this is that it wasn't 20/20! The average handicap of players who suggest ball choice is very important is 14.16 (down 3+ whole points from the overall golf average) and if you include the BETTER than scratch handicappers as zero, that falls to 13.85. 13. What is your position on iron covers? 57 of you (2.77%) use iron covers 821 of you (39.97%) of you think these 57 people should be openly mocked 1176 (57.26%) of you think these 57 people should do whatever they like :) 14. Do you drink alcohol while golfing? 17.96% of you don't see any difference between a golf course and an open bar 29.60% of you drink and play some of the time 24.74% of you drink occasionally 27.70% of you never drink while golfing Of the 29 zero or better handicappers among us, 11 never drink on the course and 5 drink most of the time! 15. What is your preferred tee time? 40.55% of you enjoy gettingup at the crack of dawn for an early morning tee time 27.46% of you like a morning slot, but without the early wake-up 14.41% of you would rather play in the afternoon 13.00% of you enjoy finishing the day with twilight golf Just 4.58% of you prefer to tee off at lunchtime 16. What is your preferred way of getting around the course? 45.13% of you prefer driving 32.18% of you are card carrying members of the push cart mafia 22.69% of you mental bastards prefer to walk and carry 17. Are you a member of a club? 71.23% of golf are nomads 23.81% of us are full year members of a club 4.96% of us are members of a club for part of the year 18. Have you ever had a hole-in-one? 10.18% of you have an ace to your name 89.82% of us are still searching for that elusive milestone! 19. Who do you prefer golfing with? 76.53% of us would rather golf with our friends 12.03% most enjoy playing with family 10.37% prefer the solitude of a solo round 1.07% of you most enjoy the company of strangers 20. Hot or cold? 67.53% of you would prefer to play in roasting hot conditions 32.47% would rather play in the freezing cold 21. What is your biggest pet peeve on the course? Here's how you responded to the pre-defined answers:
Peeve
# of you who most hate this
Slow play
1051
Lack of course care
214
People who hit up on you
204
'Put me down for bogey' guy
147
People who litter
145
Bluetooth speakers
111
Unsolicited advice
93
And here are some of the best 'write in' answers!
All of the above in equal parts (this was a popular response!)
The 6-foot gimme guy
Drunk golfers (refer to question 14)
Finding out the greens have been cored
The 10 practice swings before a duff guy
Snobbery
Rule sticklers
This is technically littering, but cigarette butts and sunflower seeds
Starters who don't properly manage their time sheets
Angry players who swear, throw clubs etc.
22. What do you consider to be the best part of your game? 34.95% of you are best with an iron in your hands 31.44% of you are magicians around the green with a wedge 16.84% of you feel most at home on the greens 16.77% of you love to step on to the tee with the big dog 23. What do you consider to be the worst part of your game? 45.62% of you aren't confident with driver in hand 20.25% of you least like putting 18.55% don't strike irons well compared to the rest of your game 15.58% of you are most uncomfortable with a wedge 24. Assuming you had not achieved either, would you rather... 68.01% of you would rather play a whole round to par or better 31.99% of you would prefer to write a "1" on your score card 25. Which shot produces the most pleasure for you? An utterly PURE mid/long iron right out of the sweet spot (40.12%) Ripping a booming drive down the middle of the fairway (30.62%) Reading the break and hitting the ideal weight on a putt (11.74%) A pin-point chip/pitch to tap-in range (9.54%) Crushing a wood off the deck (4.67%) Splashing out of the sand to a few inches from the cup (2.58%) A perfectly judged bump & run (0.73%) So that's all of the questions with pre-defined answers, which was much easier for me to dissect than the qualitative answers to come! With upward of 2000 responses, I can't depict every answer, so have done my best to group them and provide some outlying humour and interesting responses. 26. Who are you picking to drain a 20-foot breaking putt to save your life? By far the most popular response was "Tiger" or a variation of it (including "2000 Sunday Tiger" or "Young Tiger" or simply just an emoji and there are so many variations of TW, Eldrick, El Tigre etc. that I am not going to tally them up - just trust me on this, he is far and away the top choice!) A lot of you would back yourself for the putt. Some because you legitimately think you will make it, others because they will feel more motivated than anyone on earth while others wouldn't consider burdening another person with that responsibility! So here's the list I've generated with everyone who had 5 or more mentions.
Tiger Woods (714) - not including the aforementioned variations of his name, so I suspect that more than half of you will have chosen TW in some way, shape or form
Myself (139)
Jordan Spieth (121)
Jack Nicklaus (83)
Phil Mickelson (82)
Dustin Johnson (76)
Rickie Fowler (62)
Justin Thomas (58)
Jason Day (49)
Kevin Kisner (31)
Bryson DeChambeau (26)
Colin Morikawa (20)
Brad Faxon (18)
Kevin Na (17) - and two said "just so he can walk it in"
Steve Stricker (16)
Rory McIlroy (15)
My dad (13)
Dennis McCarthy (12)
Anyone but myself (11)
Happy Gilmore (11)...uh oh, Happy learned how to putt!
Jesus (11)
Ben Crenshaw (10)
Brandt Snedeker (9)
Webb Simpson (9)
Matt Kuchar (8)
Ian Poulter (8)
Brooks Koepka (6)
Arnold Palmer (6)
Tommy Fleetwood (6)
Jim Furyk (6)
Jon Rahm (5) - would have been a lot more after last weekend!
Patrick Reed (5)
A special shout out to....
The 6 people who would choose my mom (clearly good putting is not hereditary)
The 3 people who said "The Club Pro Guy"
The 2 people who said Michael Phelps
The 2 who said Batman
The 1 cool cat who said Carole Baskin
The 1 who nominated Rick Shiels because he "prefers some risk"
And the wise guy who said "a robot designed for putting" (see: 2000 Tiger)
27. If you could change one rule in golf, what would it be? Another one where I made it pretty difficult to analyse and display the results! But here are a few of the top answers (in what I interpret as order of popularity), and please feel free to access the results yourself if you want to sort through them all.
Lost ball to become a drop at nearest point of relief for a one-shot penalty instead of reloading for three
All hazards/OOB to be red stakes for consistency
Be permitted to ground your club in a bunker
Relax dress codes (including allowing tour players to wear shorts)
"Gallery Balls" whereby amateurs receive a free drop for a 'lost' ball that is definitely in play
All players should receive relief from fairway divots
Any drop/penalty should just be one stroke (a LOT of you think all OB should be treated as a lateral hazard)
A certain number of mulligans per round (most said one, but some of you want up to 3 per nine!)
Actual enforcement of penalties for slow play and/or a shot clock
Be permitted to lift, clean and place on all fairways
Free relief for things like ree roots, fences etc.
Drop height... some of you want it lower (ankle) and some of you want it back to the waist!
Change number of clubs permitted in bag (interestingly, half of those who suggested this want fewer and the other half want more - there doesn't seem to be a universal consensus)
That inconsequential and accidental touches of the ball or sand should not result in a penalty
Allow rangefinders/slope in competitive play
Preferred lies within one club-length no nearer the hole on all grass and bunker sand
Flagsticks should remain in the cup 100% of the time
Overturn the ban on anchoring
Slightly bigger cups
Stymies should be permitted
While sorting through these responses, it became apparent just how difficult it is to please all golfers. On one line, someone says "Collared shirts compulsory" and on the next, someone says "Collared shirts optional!" And finally, this one tickled me... "If you are not on the green and can run to your ball and play another shot within 5 seconds, the first one shouldn't count!" 28. What is your hottest/most controversial golf take? Another one that's impossible to really depict succinctly, so here are some interesting responses, copied and pasted exactly as you wrote them!
(most) old people ruin the game (gatekeeping & arrogance towards younger generation)
"Annoying fans" are necessary to grow the sport
18 holes per game is too many
70% of people should be playing from the red tees. Move forward
Alcohol should be banned on the course
Alignment lines on balls should be banned
All private clubs should have a public day
Amateur golfers on YouTube do more for attracting new people to the sport than pros on TV
Augusta as a course/club is overhyped. If it wasn't for the exclusivity and the masters itself, it would be considered an average course
Bad golfers should be relegated to non-ideal tee times
Blades make you a better golfer because you can feel where your misses are on the face
Breaking 80 isn’t impressive if it’s not from the tips
Brooks is more annoying than Bryson
Bryson and brooks are likable, talented guys
Bryson and Patrick reed are good for the game (several dozen more Bryson takes!)
Carts should only be used by people with mobility issues
Corn Ferry far superior to European tour
Dress codes are stupid
European Tour is more difficult than the PGA Tour
Everyone cheats, somehow or some way
Fairway shots are most times harder than shots out of the rough on low quality courses
Fedex Cup should be match play
Fitting is the biggest scam going. It is a sales tool and nothing more.
Getting married ruins the promising careers of young pga pros (see Jordan, tiger, rory, rickie, DJ)
Gimmes are acceptable and should be reasonable encouraged in social (non-competitive) play
Gimmes suck and hurt your game
Glove should not be removed during putting
Golf courses are a waste of resources and land
Golf decorum means something and isn't designed to be purely elitist
golf fans are the worst fans of any sport
Golf isn’t fun to watch just to play
Handicapping is a participation trophy for bad players
Hazards should not be raked, they are hazards
Hitting Fairway Woods off the deck is far easier than off the tee
Hole in one's aren't that special
I don't like Phil Mickelson
I don't really mind slow play
I don't think you should mark your ball on the putting green for the other golfers. Putt around other balls.
I love golf but hate golfers
I'd be on tour if I was given 1 year to train, a new fitted set of clubs, and had no obligations to anything outside of golf (this respondent is a scratch player)
I'd like to see a tournament with separate tees: womens/champions/PGA, all competing for the same $/trophy
I'd rather hit a great drive and double bogey than dink my iron a few times and par
If Bryson was black people would focus on the fact that he is changing the game and advancing it rather than focusing on his minor blunders he has had and blowing them out of proportion.
If you can’t shoot under 100, you have no business being on a regulation/championship 18 hole golf course
Instead of rolling back the ball, ban the use of tees
Iron covers aren’t terrible
Irons should be labeled with loft not numbers
Leaving the pin in to putt is better than taking it out
Men can learn way more from watching the LPGA than the PGA Tour
Mulligans are stupid and you cheat yourself out of an actual score
Music being played from the cart should not be distracting during a random weekend tee time. We aren’t on tour.
No discount should be given if the greens are aerated
No one should take more than one practice swing. Just get up and hit the ball.
Nobody wants to see pros play ridiculously tough courses where the winner is -1.
Older men at golf courses prove millennial aren't the entitled generation, its the 50 to 60 old dude who is
Pace of play is less of an issue than people make it out to be in the amateur game
PGA tour broadcast juices yardages for casual fans
Players on the tour aren’t too long, it’s cool to see what they can do with the same equipment as us
Playing forward by a set of tees doesn't make you less of a man
Playing more rounds will help you improve scores faster than range sessions. Rounds are what get scored, not repeated hits off turf.
Practice swings don't work and are generally pointless
Prime tiger wouldn’t go on that run he had today against this new talent
Pro Golfers should be able to play through noise and heckling
Pro V1s are overrated and mainly used by people for placebo
Pros are playing for millions of dollars they are allowed to be entitled and whine
Pros should carry their own bags
Putters over $100 are a waste of money
Rowdy fans are alright
Ryder Cup is better than any major
Scottys are not overpriced
Scrambles are a horrible way to play golf
Shafts don't matter for most golfers
Solo golfers do not have the right of way as long as the group ahead is meeting course pace of play
Stepping on someone's putting line makes no difference
Take the driver out of the bag. You’ll shoot better.
Tee boxes based on handicap not age/gender
The British Open is more prestigious than the Masters
The top 20 LPGA players could make bank on the men's tour if they could tee off from 100 yards ahead
The US Open is a better tournament than the Masters
There are like 5 people on the subreddit qualified to give swing advice
Tiger doesn't care to win again
Unless you are a 10 handicap or better, the ball you play does not matter
US Open should only be played at public golf courses
Waiting for the group in front of you is not hard or annoying
Womens golf is more entertaining to watch
Yelling fore does nothing. You’re on a course be aware of your surroundings.
You should have to have a license to play golf. Nothing crazy just take an online class that would go over basic rules and etiquette.
29. What is the best golf course you have ever played? Have aggregated the most popular answers to the best of my ability, capped at 6+ responses.
Pebble Beach (17)
Chambers Bay (16)
Half-Moon Bay (15)
Torrey Pines (13)
Whistling Straits (12)
TPC Scottsdale (11)
Bethpage Black (10)
Arcadia Bluffs (9)
Wolf Creek (9)
Tobacco Road (8)
Sypglass (8)
Pinehurst #2 (7)
Pasatiempo (6)
TPC Sawgrass (6)
30. What is your bucket list course that you are yet to play? Again, a lot of variations here which made it tough for me to sort the data, but have done my best to sample a Top 10. I was very surprised to see Augusta behind St Andrews and so far behind Pebble but I suppose people subconsciously don't vote for courses they have no legitimate way of ever playing. I'd be interested to see these results if I re-phrased the question to "You have a free, no questions asked tee time anywhere in the world, name your club..."
Pebble Beach (433)
St Andrews (200)
Augusta (193)
Bandon Dunes (119)
Pinehurst #2 (61)
TPC Sawgrass (49)
Bethpage Black (35)
Torrey Pines (22)
Whistling Straits (22)
Wolf Creek (21)
31. What is the ONE thing golf administrators ought to do to encourage more people (particularly young people) to play the sport? This was a genuinely encouraging list of 2000+ results to read though. We often read about the 'doom & gloom' aspects of the future of our sport, but there is a vibrant and dedicated golf community out there thinking of ways to perpetuate interest in the sport and keep the flame lit for the next generation. Again, here's a sampling of what I would consider to be the most popular responses.
Make the game less cost prohibitive (this is a big one - everything from clubs to green fees to beers)
Open 'masterclasses' or free clinics from pros at ranges and local clubs (another big one)
Shorter courses (9 or 12 hole)
Heavily discounted beers for 18+ players
More facilities like Top Golf
A greater focus on 9-hole game, tee times, handicap structure etc.
All clubs should have a dedicated youth program
Allow interest free payment plans for things like memberships, clubs etc.
Alter rules to make it less elite/proper ie. mulligans, preferred lies etc.
Allow kids (U15) to play free (and rent clubs free), or at heavily reduced rates
Alternate course routing that allows you to come off whenever you like, not necessarily play 18
Kids play free with a paying adult (ensuring pace of play is maintained)
Relax the dress code and 'traditional' golf culture ie. be far less elitist
Twilight 9-hole beer leagues, aimed at young professionals looking for something to do after work
Carving out tee time blocks for 'beginners' so they don't feel pressured
Similarly, these blocks might be "free for all" in terms of attire, etiquette etc. so if a 14-year-old shows up in a hoodie, carrying 18 clubs and wants to have two mulligans from every tee, it's completely fine!
Introduce golf to public schools through gym/PE classes
More tech in carts and ability to connect bluetooth (with limited volume)
Change the nomenclature of "women's" tees to "beginner" or "forward" tees
Close the course one day a month for beginners, with teaching pros on the course and range
Pace of play is important, but if newbies feel intimidated they will never come back
Encourage mini games within a round for kids ie. straightest shot, nearest to pin etc.
Engage with local community/government to identify talented (possibly minority) athletes who would otherwise have no access to golf and get clubs in their hand
Decrease the emphasis on score - make it FUN and about the process, not the end result
More social events BEYOND golf in local clubs to build the golfing community rapport
Improve the professional tour TV and online products
32. What is the best tip, or piece of advice you have ever received that's improved your game? This one is just too crazy to aggregate, so please view all responses (in column AG) here :) But I will list EVERY bit of advice provided by our scratch or better players.
Only hit shots you know you can hit
Just keep playing
Don't think, just do
If you chunk chips, focus on using you left (right handed) hand more than your right
Focus on the next shot
Get a lesson
You're not good enough to get mad
Slow tempo always creates a better shot
Tempo tempo tempo! 90% of my bad swings are rushing at the top and hands getting ahead of my body
Hammer the nail
You don't control the outcome, focus on the process
Bowed left wrist
Being mad is ok, being negative is not
Ask quetions of people who are better than you
Focus on the shot you have now, not the one you just hit
Swing on a plane
Eliminate the double cross
Play your game
Before all else, hit the center of the face
Aim small, miss small
Care less
Slow Down
Learn how to properly manage the course
The only shot that matters is the next
Rotation is the wrong word, you're not supposed to rotate
Relax your grip
Accelerate THROUGH the ball - let the ball simply get in the way of your club head’s swing path
33. If you had the attention of EVERY SINGLE PLAYER in the world for 10 whole seconds, what would you say? Again, too much for me to break down, so you can see all responses here in column AH, but here are some of my favorites and some of the more popular ones!
Fix your ball mark
Hurry the fuck up
One practice swing is enough
Leave the flag in
Pick up your fucking trash
Have more fun on the course - it's a game after all
Enjoy this game while we can - it's truly a privilege
Accommodate the new as when you are gone, they are all that are left to carry the game
Grip it and rip it
Focus on contact before power
Sam Snead's win record is B.S.
Thank you for making me feel like I'm not the only person obsessed with this game
If you love golf, take new people golfing
Be considerate to players of all skill levels and work to grow the game not alienate newcomers
Keep your tempo up through the chip shot
Yelling "FORE" could save someone's life (including tour players)
FORE RIGHT
Your ego doesn't exist, let it go
Don't be a dick, treat the game/courses right, and if you're going to suck, suck at a faster pace
There's always someone worse than you
You don't practice enough to get that mad
You aren’t as good as you think and that's okay
Go get fitted, it will pay for itself many times over in the long run
Be ready to hit your shot before it's your turn
You hit the ball 15 yards shorter than you think you do
At your best as a pro, you’ll never be half as good as Tiger's peak
Mashed potatoes
It's our job to grow the game.
Baba booey
Jim Nantz, please come do the color commentary for one my rounds
Take some damn lessons and stop buying $500 drivers
Stop giving yourself gimmies, put the ball in the hole
Smell the roses, enjoy the views
Golf is hard
All of you sandbaggers are going to hell
Hurry the fuck up, and stop spending a minute perfectly adjusting the line on that 15 footer for bogey
It's our job to grow the game
ONE FUCKING PRACTICE SWING
Thanks again for your input! I might edit this later with some more findings, but that's enough for now!
I wrote this post to help players new to the Cube format and posted it to mtgcube. I thought I would post it here for people who may not know (or know little) about the format and are interested to learn what it has to offer and how to get started playing one of the best formats in Magic! If anyone has any questions I'd love to help :) --------------------------------------------------------------- This post aims to draw together a bunch of research that helped me get started cubing, pulling on advice from other cubers, resources on the mtgcube subreddit, and external articles. The idea is to cover the basics, answer the FAQs and collate links to other resources for further reading. (please bear in mind this is a round up of advice through the lens of my own bias, I am not claiming any advice here to be the way thingsshouldbe done, just to provide a starting point to people who don’t yet know how thingscouldbe done)
Post breakdown:
0 - What is a Cube?
1 - Quick Start
2 - Detailed Start
3 - Extras
4 - Resource Hub
0 - WHAT IS A CUBE?:
“A cube is a ... collection of (often powerful) cards used for drafting and playing Limited. Drafting a cube is similar to drafting booster packs, but instead of drafting from three fifteen-card Magic booster packs, you draft from fifteen-card "packs" that you create from your cube.” - Building Your First Cube) Tolarian Community College - What is a Magic: The Gathering Cube? Main cube benefits:
Balance your own power level
Curate your own theme or flavour (Set cubes/colour restrictions/EDH/etc.)
Players draft for free for ever! (No more $4 boosters)
Tune-able to make your and your playgroups' favourite strategies viable
Ignore problematic products from WotC. Only cards you and your playgroup enjoy go in the cube!
Endless brewing (Building a cube is great for those who really enjoy brewing, analysing cards and creating something)
How many players do I need to play my cube?: Cube can be enjoyed with anywhere between 2-8 players. A brilliant summary of different draft methods for different player counts can be found here
1 - QUICK START:
So you like the look of cube and want to get started playing the best limited format ASAP? Here are some of the easiest ways to start building and playing Cube:
Pull together 360 cards you already own into a Cube, following the rough colour balance guidelines in the WotC “Building Your First Cube” article
Purchase a premade cube (links in the resource hub)
Copy or gain inspiration from some of the most popular cubes (links in the resource hub)
If you decide to build your own first cube, as long as you have reasonably even colour sections and a curves similar to what you might want to draft in retail limited you will produce an environment that will be a blast to play. Other early facets you may wish to explore are:
Card power delta - i.e. how much stronger your strongest card is compared to your weakest. Typically cube design aims to cut out the draft chaff found in retail limited so that all packs contain fun and playable cards.
Archetypes you enjoy - e.g. if you enjoy Madness and graveyard interaction cards, building a cube environment that supports this type of gameplay is a worthwhile goal! Cards you enjoy but not sure whether they fit - Just jam 'em in. It’s not necessary to worry too much about individual card balance early on. Actually playing with the cards in the cube will be the best way to inform decision making.
Remember, you can always add and remove cards as you see fit. It’s not necessary to agonise over individual card choice at this point (although of course you may if that floats your boat). CubeCobra is the community favourite cube management website. It is similar to existing decklist websites (mtggoldfish etc.), but made specifically for cube. It has all sorts of tools for managing, analysing and playtesting your cube, and is invaluable for a cube designer. **Playing your cube:**Playing paper magic is currently challenging to impossible depending on where you are in the world. See the Resource Hub for ways to play your cube online. Bonus Link - Lucky paper - How and why to build a cube (podcast) IF YOU HAVE READ TO HERE AND LIKE THE LOOK OF CUBE:
Reading the "2- Detailed Start" section isnotnecessary, you absolutely can build a fun and functional first cube using just the info above (and the links in the hub below).
You may wish to return and use the below section to refine the cube once you start building, or to make changes after you have drafted a few times.
However if you're the type that likes in-depth info, please read on!
2 - DETAILED START:
To help make this section more searchable/digestible I’ve split it into what I’d consider to be the key elements to think about when building your first cube:
2.1 Size
2.2 Power & Removal
2.3 Archetypes
2.4 Signposting
2.5 Gold count
2.6 Nonbasic lands
2.7 Colourless
2.8 Colourless Ramp
2.9 Singleton or Not?
2.10 Board State
2.11 Devotion
2.12 First Cube
2.1 SIZE: The size of your cube affects a number of factors, such as card density, number of players, variation between drafts, cohesion of archetypes etc. Typical cube sizes are multiples of 180 (as they divide nicely into 15 card packs)
180: Normally the minimum cube size one should build, it will support only 4 players drafting or 2 players sealed, and will provide a low variation in each draft. The pros of a 180 cube are that they can be used to support archetypes difficult to play at higher card counts, provide a draft consistency useful for teaching new players, are cheaper to build and sleeve, and can be more easily transported.
360: The /standard/ cube size, supporting a full 8 player draft pod or 4 players sealed and provides twice the variation per draft! This is my recommended size for a first cube. It should provide easily enough variation for long lasting fun, without being an unwieldy first project.
450: Often used as a stepping stone above 360 to introduce further variation into the cube (still drafted in 8 man pods), and to allow more sealed players and alternate draft methods.
540+: For further variation in 8 man pods, or support for two 8 man pods at higher card counts.
2.2 POWER (and power consistency): How powerful do you want the contents of your cube to be? u/land_of_Mordor has written up a brilliant shorthand for differentiating cube power levels here This scale ranges from 1 (Retail limited) to 10 (Fully powered, absolute strongest cards in magic the gathering) It is important to consider power consistency when building your cube. Ideally most of your cards ought to sit at a roughly equal power band to provide fun and fair gameplay. For an extreme example, a cube that runs sol ring (found in ~strix 8+) should not include drastically lower power cards such as celestial prism (and vice versa). Ideally you don’t want situations where your drafters win because they have the “better” cards than their opponent. Cube is an opportunity to move away from the chaff/bombs divide present in retail limited. A useful tool for gauging the balance in your cube after building it is to use the filters in CubeCobra to sort your cube by “Elo” and scrutinise any outliers. The elo system ranks cards by recording each card picked against every other card passed in a pack. <1000 elo is very low >2000 elo is incredibly high (power 9 sit in this spot). Due to how elo is calculated it doesn’t take into account:
Your environment - A card with low elo but important to a synergy in your cube may well be a high pick bomb in your environment
Card “power” - Elo is a reflection of how early drafters pick cards. In a cube draft, assessment value is often given by players to cards that allow them to fix mana, ramp or stay open. For this reason, the Elo of a card such as arbor elf is significantly higher than dragonlord atarka
In summary, Elo is a useful tool to flag outliers, but individual card merit should still be assessed by the cube designer in the environment they are creating. 2.2(a) REMOVAL: Removal in cube plays a significant role in how your environment functions and its overall power level. Density and efficiency are the main dials of removal that can be tweaked to adjust your format.
Low density - Removal becomes a premium. Threats stick to the board for longer. Baneslayers are more viable
High density - Mulldrifters become a premium / Baneslayers are less viable. Less focus on creature combat.
Low efficiency - Aggro has a greater window to get “under” the other players.
High efficiency - Threats need to be cheap and provide high value to not be outclassed by cheap removal.
Ideally density and efficiency of removal should reflect the rest of your cube. For example, high efficiency high density removal is best suited to environments that have very efficient threats. Efficiency can be adjusted by raising/lowering the CMC of removal spells (Murder vs Daring Demolition), deciding on instant vs sorcery, or including removal with restrictions/drawbacks (Bone Splinters) Attaching removal to bodies increases both density and efficiency. E.g. Ravenous Chupacabra Density can otherwise be adjusted by increasing/decreasing the removal card count in your environment. 2.3 ARCHETYPES: You may wish to decide on supported archetypes at the inception of your cube, or allow them to present themselves through play of your quick start cube. Archetype support is a tricky beast, many cube designers have differing opinions on how (or even if) archetype support should be implemented. Two main axis that archetype support can be measured on are “Parasitism” and “Weight” "Parasitism in cube" video and thread Parasitic strategies work within their own defined bounds, don’t care much about other cards, and are underperformers/useless outside of their strategy.
Mill and tribal can be examples of parasitic archetypes.
Medium parasitic cards might be fringe playable outside their intended strategy e.g. Auramancer
Low parasitic cards are playable in multiple shells but shine in their desired archetype. E.g. Galvanic Blast
Running cards that have a good floor (i.e. worst case scenario) but improve in your chosen archetypes is a good way to reduce parasitism in your cube. Additionally, running cards that fit multiple archetypes can be desirable e.g. Rimrock Knight is useful to mono R aggro, spells matters, and weenies “Weight” is the term I’m giving to the measurement of how prominent each archetype is in each colour. A lower weight may allow for more organic strategies to develop in your draft environment A higher weight may result in drafters feeling like they are being pushed to do what you "want" them to do For example if you run 20 Prowess creatures in red and white, players may feel obliged to lean into the strategy given to them instead of having the agency to build their own unique deck. Where your cube sits on the Parasitism/Weight scale will be personal to you, and will likely change as you develop and adjust your cube. You and your playgroup's enjoyment can help drive these decisions. u/Japahn has an excellent article here on archetype design in cube. 2.4 SIGNPOSTING: Signpost cards are cards that support and communicate the presence of a strategy to drafters. These can be used effectively to help players understand what is possible in your cube. For example, if a player opens a pack and sees Thermo Alchemist and/or Talrand, Sky Summoner they might reasonably believe that a “Spellslinger” theme is present in your cube. In the same line of thinking, it can be worth avoiding false signposts that lead players to believe a strategy or theme is present that actually doesn’t exist. For example one half of the blood combo without the other, or otherwise playable cards that suggest a strategy that doesn’t exist e.g. Champion of Dusk without vampire tribal. You may even consider eliminating one-off mechanics for comprehension. E.g. I cut Aether hub in favour of Tendo Ice Bridge after a drafter was disappointed that Energy wasn’t a present mechanic in the cube. Gold cards are a good opportunity to show your drafters some of the strategies possible in each colour combination. This should feel familiar to players, as WotC employs the same design in their retail sets. 2.5 GOLD COUNT: Gold cards can be very fun, they act as good signposts and are often players’ & designers’ favourite cards. The temptation to include lots of gold cards is high among beginning cube designers for these reasons, however a lower count is generally more beneficial for the environment. Fundamentally, gold cards are relevant to far fewer players and have a tendancy to wheel around the table before landing with a player who doesn’t want them. For example, a Lightning Helix is very relevant to your Boros drafter (if there even is one this session), lightly relevant to your Naya/Jeskai/Mardu drafters (if there are any) and irrelevant to everyone else. In contrast Lightning Strike is relevant to ⅕ of your Mono colour drafters. 5/10 of your 2 colour drafters and 6/10 of your 3 colour drafters. Someone at your table will be playing red, and this card is guaranteed to be relevant and desirable. More cards able to be played by more people in more strategies = more agency for your drafters 20-30 gold cards in 360 anecdotally works very nicely. 2.6 NONBASIC LANDS: Good fixing in cube is crucial to help games run smoothly. Not being able to play magic due to mana screw is one of the least enjoyable aspects of the game. Good fixing reduces the number of feel bad games your drafters experience due to poor variance. 30-40 lands in 360 cards will help ensure the games are more enjoyable for everyone. Unfortunately, good lands can be expensive, but proxy printing/sharpie changes can solve this issue! (proxy resource links below) (it is worth noting a risk of too much fixing is that everyone is able to draft 5 colour piles of the best cards(this may still happen even at lower land count if 7 of your drafters ignore the fixing and one player snaps up 20 lands)) 2.7 COLOURLESS: Colourless cards are effectively “free” picks for your drafters, allowing them to remain open in the draft while providing powerful effects. Fun utility cards and curve filling creatures are perfect candidates for the colourless section. Due to the “free” nature of colourless cards, you may wish to balance them in such a way that they don’t outclass your coloured cards. 2.8 COLOURLESS RAMP: Colourless ramp such as Sol Ring and Dimir Signet allow your drafters to cheat past the early stages of the game. Be very cautious about including cheap colourless ramp in any lower powered environment. Reasons to be careful:
Strong ramp can invalidate aggro
If you want ramp to be part of Green’s identity, colourless ramp can invalidate it (or reduce its uniqueness)
It can cause swingy games based on variance - Opponent plays a T1 sol ring and you have no ramp. You’re almost guaranteed to lose
A rough guide for rocks that produce 1 mana:
0-1CMC rocks (Moxen/Sol Ring) - Powered cubes only (Strix 9-10)
2 CMC rocks (Signets/Talismans/Diamonds) - Medium cubes (Strix 5-8)
3+ CMC rocks (Crystals/Lockets/Cluestones) - Lower power cubes (Strix 0-4)
Don’t be fooled by “enters tapped” clauses. Sphere of the Suns is still likely too strong for a low powered cube. Bonus: Rock List 2.9 SINGLETON OR NOT?:
Pros: Higher variety of cards / More unique mechanics / Draft decks will contain all unique cards / Aesthetically pleasing to some
Cons: Some strategies may require a higher density of a certain effect at a certain CMC to be viable
Breaking singleton is a fine thing to do, but typically is only worth doing to fulfil a design goal that can’t be achieved by another unique card. A common singleton break is for nonbasic lands, as cube designers often want to provide the best possible fixing for their drafters. The first iteration of my cube broke singleton in a few places and it was fine, but very quickly I felt like I was wasting slots that I'd rather use to increase variety and replayability. Interesting write-up on breaking singleton by u/Karametric 2.10 BOARD STATE: Do you want a front heavy (i.e. 3/2 creatures) or a back heavy (i.e. 2/3 creatures) board state? This article discusses the advantages of a front heavy board state. I won’t repeat the detail of this article here as I’ve nothing extra to add, but the main point is that a front heavy board allows for meaningful attacks and reduces board stalls. 2.11 DEVOTION: Cards with a high colour devotion (i.e. multiple coloured pips in their casting cost) are more difficult to cast by more of your drafters. For example Knight of the White Orchid can only reliably be cast on curve by a mono white (or heavily white) deck. Cards with low CMC and high devotion are particularly problematic, as finding 2 white by turn 2 in a Selesnya deck is a lot harder than finding 2 white by turn 5 to cast Regal Caracal. When designing with this in mind, high devotion cards can be used to tune the accessibility & viability of 3+ colour decks. 2.12 FIRST CUBE: u/Fleme’s write up on assessing your first cube was a massive boon for reviewing the first cube I built. Reading this before and/or after building your cube should provide lots of useful insight.
3 EXTRA
Cube Costs: Within reason, cube can be as expensive or cheap as you want it to be. Here’s a quick breakdown of costs associated with cube:
FREE - Playing a CubeCobra list exclusively online
FREE - Playing with cards you already own
~$35 - 550 Sleeves required for 360 cards + 34 of each basic land
Variable - Cost of singles bought for the cube. Your design goals and tolerance for proxies dictate this.Proxying (Requires sleeves):
Free - Printing on any printer you have free access to (University/work etc.)
Variable - Printing at home, cost variable on printeink/card stock
~$0.25/card - Online printing services
$10 - $200 - Storage
4 RESOURCE HUB
A hub for cube and draft resources! Many of the resources below have been discussed and analysed in a vast number of different articles/videos/podcasts. If any one topic takes your interest, a quick google will almost always lead you to more content on a topic. E.g. Quadrant theory has been analysed by a plethora of different players on many platforms. One just has to google. Sidebar: The sidebar on the right of the mtgcube subreddit contains lots of useful links to podcasts/discord channels/popular threads etc. Check out what it has to offer.(If you are on mobile, sidebar links can be accessed by scrolling to the top of the subreddit and pressing the "about" button in the right/centre of the page) How to draft:
Quadrant Theory - A method for evaluating cards, useful for design and play within your cube.
Draft evaluation in cube - This video focuses on how to draft cube more effectively, and in turn contains information that can be very useful when considering your design.
How to shuffle:
Fully randomising your cube by regular thorough shuffling is normal and provides good gameplay.
Dr4ft.info - Draft tool with cube support and pack size, pick number, draft speed, and bot options. Produces savable draft logs + deck lists for importing elsewhere
Untap.in - Promising looking for drafting and playing in browser, but anecdotally have encountered issues with cards that refuse to load or produce errors. Hopefully this will be fixed in future. (Limited draft options)
Tabletop Simulator - A simulator that allows you to play board/card games as in real life
I hope this resource hub is useful, I've been writing and thinking about it for some time now and it feels great to finally put it out there for people to enjoy! If anyone has any feedback, suggestions or useful links that ought to be included, please do let me know :)
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What To Do With My Second-Hand PC (New to Reddit)(Music Production/Gaming Rig)
Hey, I'm new to Reddit, and I made an account because I need some computer hardware advice. I'm not the best with computer hardware and I'm pretty decent with software as long as I don't have to get too hacky. I may also get some terminology wrong so sorry about that in advance. I read the rules for this subreddit and I'm not sure if this post lies correctly here but if my post doesn't get banned I'll leave it here (is this supposed to go on buildapacforme?, I'm not sure I'm asking about multiple parts) This is going to be a long post but here's the TL;DR - I have a second-hand computer with bits and pieces and I'm unsure what to do with it. Is it worth keeping and upgrading, or selling to save up for a new one? I feel like I need some expert advice because I'm unfamiliar with the value of PC parts as a whole (especially older stuff). This computer I got second hand from a guy in the UK (I live in London but am non-native). OPEN ISSUE: Possibly faulty system memory, see below* The specs are as follows: CPU: Intel Core i7 950 Motherboard: ASUS P6X58D-E RAM: Kingston (Genesis) HyperX DDR3 4GB 1600 MHz (x6) (only 12GB in use at the moment) Graphics Card: Nvidia GTX 1050 ti EVGA (not the card that came with the PC originally) OS: Win 10 Pro x64 (I think it's legit, he gave me a CD to go with it) Power Supply: Thermaltake Toughpower Xt 775w HDD: Western Digital 3TB green (wdc wd30ezrx-00mmmb0) SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 500 GB A pretty sleek Corsair case (black with a see through window on one side). It also has a CD drive. The main reason I got this computer was that the guy who sold it to me left a bunch of software on it for me to use for music production (Ableton, Omnisphere, Maschine, and a lot of plugins, etc.). I have since gotten a mac mini and other software, but I'm open to having this as a spare music rig for Pro Tools (unless there's a better option). Pro Tools in particular, since my paid version doesn't work on Catalina and I have to pay again to update. The parts and the computer itself are pretty old by computer standards and the guy said it was at least 7 years old when I got it (in 2018). It came originally with another graphics card (GTX 760 I think), but this card died in under a year and onboard graphics couldn't handle even browsing the desktop so it lay for a while. I decided to buy a graphics card because I wanted to try some gaming on it, so I got the 1050 ti and it kind of fixed the computer for a while. I could browse the computer normally again, use the music programs and even play games on it. *After a while, I started getting some blue screen of deaths and after I fixed those there was one BSOD that kept popping up about system memory. I got this usually an hour after booting (quicker with more intense programs) and Windows Memory Diagnostics didn't help me at all so it lay again. I asked around and one guy recommended taking out some RAM and spacing them out with one DIMM slot in between, and to my surprise, I have not yet encountered that error and it's been a couple of days now without a BSOD (I'm now down from 24GB RAM to 12). There are corsair fans cooling the CPU and RAM inside, and they are connected to a panel on the front where I can dial in the speeds of the fans (the panel is made by a company called "Scythe"). The CPU is a bit of a yikes for me as far as performance goes (at least in music production and some games I think...can CPU bottleneck frames?) and I have heard that if the CPU and motherboard have to be swapped then it becomes a question of a new computer. Now the question is what to do with this PC. I feel like it could continue to deteriorate with the parts being as old as they are, and since the original graphics card died and my RAM has been halved (I haven't tested all 6 sticks, but I know 3 out of 6 work) it may just be a matter of time for the rest. So far I invested 550 GBP into the PC and the new graphics card. I have a Razer Ornata (not Chroma) keyboard and a Razer mouse (my main peripherals not including my spares). Here are my options (any other suggestions would be welcome): 1) If it can be saved (without investing the price of a new computer anyway) I would like to try, and maybe I can replace some parts with new ones that will be compatible. Ideally, I would have a CPU that compliments the GTX 1050ti nicely which means I can use it to game and mix on Pro Tools. This saves me the hassle of transferring everything to a new computer. 2) I sell the computer parts (or the whole thing if I'm lucky) and use the money for a new computer (probably win laptop so I can make music while traveling). I also have a laptop I can sell, it's an Acer V3-771G. I can put the money for both together towards something new. I could also sell my peripherals to add to that sum. This is attractive to me because the laptop I have has 1 hr battery life and has performance that I would describe as "functional". I'm unfamiliar with selling spare parts and old computers online so any pointers would be appreciated. I guess I'm looking for the most practical and cost-effective answer. Maybe more practical and comfortable than cost-effective, if getting hacky is the only solution. I'm happy to provide any more information. Thanks in advance for reading the long post.
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Thought Process Behind Building a PC. For Beginners, by Beginners.
Disclaimer: I wrote this out of boredom, and to put every knowledge I gathered this last months somewhere for everyone to see. I do not claim any authority nor will take any responsability for whatever you decide to do with this guide. I guarantee that all I wrote, I wrote in good faith. I would really love to be criticized and corrected. Thank youu/buildapcfor your help! Hello fellow /builder! You are probably here to ask for help about your dream pc build. I know I did. For hours. Weeks, actually. I have put together my system about a month ago. Rather than simply sharing my story and showing off my build (I'm not showing because cable management is b a d, ugh), I'd like to give something back to this wonderful community. So here it is, a guide for beginners, in layman terms, without unnecessary technical information.
Fundamentals
In order to even begin to request help for building your pc, first you need to know what your computer is going to be used for! There's 3 orders of information priority: Primary informations:
Target resolution: the most common being 1080p/1440p/4k and ultra wide variants
Target refresh rate: 60hz/75hz/144hz mostly
Budget
Intended purpose: workstation, gaming, rendering, etc.
If you can't provide these, nobody can really help you, at best they can make educated guesses. These informations relate directly to the parts responsible for your performance: CPU, Graphics Card, RAM, and indirectly to Motherboard. If you own a monitor, you need to find out its specs either by googling the model name, or in Advanced Display Informations. To find details about your monitor, head to Settings > System > Display and scroll down and click on “Advanced Display Settings”. If you are going to buy a monitor, you should always have resolution and refresh rate in mind when picking one. Budget and intended purpose are self explanatory! Secondary informations:
Preferred gaming titles
Overclocking capabilities
High average ambient temperature concerns - ie: living at the equator or in a tropical area
Country of residence: mainly for parts scarcity or known overpriced parts
Preferred thermal solution: air or water?
These informations are optional, but might help tailoring your build to your exact needs. Let's say you like Cities Skylines and are going to play that title 90% of the time. Now whoever is helping you, is going to recommend up to 32 gb ram and a slightly overpowered CPU to handle that. Let's say you want to play e-sports only, you might be able to scale down the project and save something on your budget. It's not an everyday occurrance to find someone who is going to play a couple of titles only, but it's less uncommon than you might think! Knowing this specific piece of information can make a measurable difference. If your intention is overclocking, then it's a good idea to say so in your build request. Not every piece of hardware can be overclocked, and not every motherboard can support overclocking. Nevertheless, if you need this guide, then I kindly suggest you do not oveclock. About ambient temperature, it's only really a concern at the high spectrum of the curve, but it might force you to pick a thermal solution. More on thermal solution later. Tertiary informations:
RGB: Y/N/Whocares
Preferred brand
Preferred case
And pretty much anything cosmetic
These informations are merely cosmetic. Some people are obsessed by RGB, some are not. If you don't mention your cosmetic preference, nobody is going to care. Function is always over form when building a pc, particularly with a budget in mind. Most people prefer a brand - I know I do - but most will settle for something else as long as it's better for their needs. If you are a die hard brand loyalist, you should mention that before someone figures out a build for you only to scrap it because you'd rather have a nVidia Graphics Card or Intel instead of AMD CPUs. It happens mostly when upgrading, but sometimes people want their build to end up in their dream (or old) case. If you are in this position, you should mention that because of space constraints. More on this later. So, here's an example of a terrible build request:
pls help I need help for a new pc for under 1k, help?
And here's an example of a good build request:
Hello, I own a 1440p/75hz monitor, I want to play AAA titles at ultra and my budget is about 1200€. I prefer AMD, want RGB (unless it's over my budget), and have a mid tower UL7R4 C00L PC case themed red. I also need some advice on water cooling. Signed: a gentleman and a scholar
Doing your research
Sometimes, you just want to figure out things on your own. Good. Here's what I did, starting with basics. This is the list of parts directly tied to performance:
Processor
Graphics Card
RAM
This is the list of parts that support your performance:
Motherboard
Storage
Thermal solution
This is the list of parts that handle your system safety and are indirectly tied to performance
Power supply
Motherboard
Thermal solution
Case
How do you even begin? Let's see first what these parts do. CPU The Processor... processes. Want to open a Chrome tab? Process that! Discord in background? A core will take care of that! Preparing a frame for your GPU to render with lights, textures, shadows? That's exactly what your CPU is for. Explaining how and what a CPU does is over the scope of this guide, so here's what you really need to know: core clock, and core count. And that's it for the most part. These two concepts are interrelated. You could have 64 core to work with at a low core clock and it could handle a ludicrous amount of processes, while unable to handle a single process that takes up to 4 cores but requires from each of them a high core clock. Such is the case with videogames, which mostly work off a limited number of cores and will perform better the faster each used core is. More cores ain't going to help, because the game ain't going to use it unless it is programmed to do so! Manufacturer usually take care of this for the consumers, by splitting their hardware portfolio in processors for servers and for consumers. AMD server CPUs are called Epyc and have a consumer equivalent (read: from the same generation) called Ryzen. Intel has Xeons for servers and their i3/i5/i7 line up for consumers. Every generation of CPUs has its own fitting socket. You physically can't put a CPU in a socket that was not designed for that CPU. A CPU socket is a part of motherboards. If you are going to pick a Ryzen CPU, it is a good idea to check what RAM capacity and clock it works best with. You can find benchmarks online for that. Some CPUs are integrated with Graphics Card. These are referred to as APUs, and I'm not going to talk about them because I'm uninformed. Tip: when picking a CPU, check console hardware. I'm not joking. Consoles are meant for gaming and are the common denominator of hardware progress for gaming. PS5 and XBox X are going to have 8 core CPUs, of which 2 are reserved for the system, thus 6 cores for videogames to play with. It's a reasonable expectation that the new standard for CPU core count is going to be 6 in the years to come. Graphics Card If you're a gamer, you want to pay close attention when picking a good GPU for your build. The GPU market is not as segmented as CPU market is, and you can easily find benchmarks for each of them at any mainstream resolution tier. Thus, picking a GPU is commonly the first step of your build, because it is directly tied to the resolution and refresh rate of your monitor. You need not to worry too much about the specs of your GPU. Benchmarks are pretty accurate at predicting their performance, but picking an aftermarket card (sometimes referred to as custom cards) can be tricky. Every Graphic Card design is reinterpreted by different manufacturers, offer different software and bios support, different thermal solutions and features. Here's some of them:
Max clock: some GPUs are factory overclocked, mostly depending on their thermal solutions.
Length: while it's mostly a concern for space constraints in your case, a longer card has generally better heat dissipation because they can fit two or more fans.
I/O shield: basically, the number and type of ports on your GPU.
RGB
0DB fans: some cards fan will not start spinning until a target temperature is reached. Neat!
About I/O shield: this is generally a concern for multi monitor setup, but you should always double check that the graphics card you are buying has the correct port for your monitor, be it HDMI, Display Port, DVI or VGA. Adapters exist, but are unreliable. AMD and Nvidia have their own V-sync function, which must be supported by the monitor in the first place in order to work. AMD has Free Sync, and most monitors have this. Nvidia has G-Sync, and most monitors do not have this. Good news for Nvidia, though. They finally caved in and added support for Free Sync, but your monitor needs to have both Free Sync and Display Port 1.2 (well, most of them do, and you should always double check that). Resources:
Motherboard The motherboard is the lymphatic system of your build. It draws power from the PSU to be carefully administered to your other components. Some people think that cheaping out on Motherboard is a good idea. To a degree. As long as your motherboard can handle your CPU power draw, is compatible with your RAM, has enough SATA ports for your storage, has a good number of USB ports and a decent BIOS, it is good to go. Easy right? ...well. Here's some research you can do on your own:
First, google your motherboard name and manufacturer, then click on Specifications
CPU Socket: it has to fit your CPU!
SATA, USB, M.2 storage support, all of these can be inspected in the Specification page under Storage, Features or I/O Shield
RAM compatibility: In the main spec page there should be a general indication such as "Supports DDR4 3200+(OC)". Further, In the page of your manufacturer, look for "Support" or "Memory Support". For Ryzen, you need to know what architecture your CPU is (Summit Ridge, Pinnacle Ridge, Matisse, etc.), for Intel, the generation should be sufficient. Now look for "Memory QVL" or "Memory Support". This should open a list of RAMs split in brands and frequency. Those rams have been tested and are known to work at the declared frequency on that specific motherboard.
BIOS: This one you must research opinions for. A good BIOS lets you overclock or regulate your CPU and RAMs accurately. A good BIOS could be fundamental or entirely optional, depending on what type of user you are. It's not strictly for overclockers, a good BIOS helps recovering, monitoring, and troubleshooting your PC.
Fan/waterpump headers and fan control: yup, a motherboard with multiple fan headers will allow you to upgrade and control the airflow of your case. The water pump header is a necessity in case of water cooling.
Handling of CPU power draw: this one is a bitch. Motherboards draw power from the PSU and give it to your CPU. This process might incur in two issues: capacity and thermal limitations. Any given motherboard can only draw so much power for your CPU, and it gets hot while doing that. This process is regulated by VRM, Power Phases and Power Chokes. What you need to know is that CPUs with high core count and/or power draw (measured under TDP) are harder to handle and will require a better Motherboard with good dissipation and more power phases to operate well. When it comes to low to low-mid range CPUs, this is not a big concern, but the more power the CPU draws, the better the Motherboard has to be.
Motherboard power draw is very hard to investigate, you need to rely on trusted reviewers (such as Buildzoid, Gamer Nexus, Hardware Unboxed) or tier lists on popular forums/sites/reddits. Note that if you plan to overclock, you must have a good Motherboard. Tip: the bulk of your work can be done automatically byPCPartPickersystem builder. Pick your designated CPU, compatible motherboards will be already filtered. If you pick both CPU and motherboard, RAMs will also be filtered for compatibility. Resources:
RAM While PCPartPicker exists, picking a compatible RAM is easy. Picking the right RAM is something else entirely. First things first: do never, ever, buy a single stick of ram. You want 2 sticks of RAMs, which should be bought in pairs. I can't advice against buying 4 sticks of RAM, but make sure motherboard supports them or do some in depth research because system stability is at stake. Nowadays, 16gb of ram, rated 3200 to 3600 mhz, with a Cas Latency (CL) of 16 is the norm. Ryzen CPUs are particularly sensitive to RAMs. As a rule of thumb you should get 3000-3200 mhz CL16 rams for Zen+, and 3200-3600 mhz CL16 rams for Zen2. You can get better rams, but there's no guarantee they will be stable if they are terribly overpowered for your Ryzen CPU (a good motherboard and a good overclocker might make anything stable with little compromise nevertheless). Lower latency RAMs usually cost more than higher frequency rams, but will not incur in such issues. Here's benchmarks for 2 of the most popular CPUs:
Bottleneck Bottleneck is what happens when in a particular task, one of your component (RAM, CPU or GPU) is at the limit of its performance, while the others aren't. Let's cut to the chase: you can not avoid bottlenecking entirely. Bottleneck is hardware, software and settings dependant. You can not make the perfect match, you can only avoid a bad match.
Avoiding hardware bottleneck:
This is extremely dependant on target resolution and refresh rate. CPU has the same workload at either 1080p or 4k. Meanwhile, a given GPU might give you perfect 144 fps at 1080p, and struggle to reach 75 at 4k. The higher your resolution is, the better your GPU needs to be. Conversely, if you know you are playing at 4k and can push 75 fps at most, CPU might aswell be slightly cheaper, because you ain't ever going to use it to its full extent. With consideration for the target resolution and refresh rate, the rule of thumb is: within a given generation of hardware, same range components will not bottleneck each other (a lot).
Avoiding software bottleneck:
Let's say you are playing Cities Skyline at over 100k population. While not much really changed for your GPU, at that point your CPU is probably gasping for watts. Ouch.Let's say you are playing AC:Odyssey. Your GPU is probably working at breakneck pace while your CPU is scheduling her counseling (yup, graphics cards are a she). The same CPU and the same GPU took turns bottlenecking each other, because the workload for each of them was uneven in each title. This is why if you play only a handful of titles it is a good idea to keep them in mind while you request help or figure out your build.
Avoiding user settings bottleneck:
This is corollary to the previous point. Some specific settings are CPU and/or GPU intensity, and lowering them will make a big difference. This is just here to remind you that you do have some influence over bottleneck, and figuring out a sweet spot where both your CPU and GPU are working close to the same pace is a good idea. Resources: You can crosscheck CPU/GPU bottleneck with this site but always keep in mind this is at best a rough estimate that feeds off algorithms, and you should never ever obsess over bottleneck unless you're breaking the rule of thumb (same generation, same tier, with resolution and refresh rate in mind): https://www.gpucheck.com/gpu-benchmark-comparison Thermal Solutions Air or water? The answer is: budget. Air is cheap and reliable, meaning that in the worst case scenario a fan stops spinning and you replace it for 10-15€. Air has diminishing returns, meaning that throwing money at it is only going to help so much performance wise. When buying an air cooler, you need to check for its height to make sure it fits in your case and doesn't touch any other component (mostly happens with RAMs and rarely with Motherboard heat sinks). Water is expensive, powerful but potentially unsafe. A bad installation, a loose bit, spilled water on a running motherboard, the recipe for disaster. Let's be clear here: water cooling your CPU is a perfectly valid solution (it's the best!), as long as your budget is right. You can't cheap out on a water cooler, because if it breaks or fails it will potentially kill your whole build. If you are going to buy a modest water cooler, my personal recommendation is to go for air instead: you are going to spend less and have literally the same performance. If you can spare more of your budget for water cooling, go ahead. Water cooling has a higher performance ceiling, which means less diminishing returns, which means that as long as you keep throwing money at it, it will get better. TL;DR: low into mid range Air cooling wins, mid range to high range Water cooling wins. This is an example of a benchmark between various air and water coolers: https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3573-zalman-cnps20x-cpu-cooler-review-benchmark-vs-noctua-nh-d15-others What do high and low temperatures really mean for your hardware? Every single piece of hardware is rated for a specific temperature. When it approaches that temperature, the hardware will start thermal throttling until eventually shutting down. You could call throttling underclocking but, at its core, it's a safety measure to prevent irreversible damage to your components. Most pieces of new hardware nowadays also have a "Boost" feature. This feature is effectively a dynamic, factory overclock, meant to push your hardware to its limit while the conditions (read: temperatures) are right. The lower your component temperature, the more it will boost. Technically speaking, a CPU or a GPU boosting for less while temperatures are high, does not strictly qualify for throttling, but this is merely semantycs. The thing is, that not only your parts are safer, more stable, and will last longer while their temperatures are low. Your parts will also be undeniably faster. A good thermal solution is the safest overclock you can get! PSU Your entire build is at the mercy of the reliability of a single component: the PSU. There are standards that you should always look up to when buying a PSU, and the following is written with exactly those standards in mind, and with the intent of teaching you about them. Before picking a PSU, you first have to figure out the peak power draw of your whole build. This figure is meant to represent how much power your system is going to use under a full synthetic load, while every component is stressed beyond what constitutes normal and even stressful non-synthetic operation. Figuring it out can be tricky and each part has its own caveats. The baseline is always CPU + GPU + a realistic static figure meant to represent the rest of the components. Let's see each of them:
CPU
While TDP is a decent baseline, it doesn't exactly refers to the peak power draw. TDP means Thermal Design Power, and it refers to the maximum amount of heat generated in Watts, which might or might not coincide with peak power draw. It's good practice to check for power consumption benchmarks of the CPU you are going to buy, although most of those benchmarks are done with the entire system power consumption figures. The real peak power draw of the CPU under extreme circumstances is rather nebulous. A good bet if you just can't find benchmarks is adding 50% to the TDP to account for synthetic benchmarks, and up to 75% to account for both synthetics and overclock (this figure might not hold up in extreme overclocking). This is a very conservative figure that will most likely cover the vast majority of CPUs. Still, some TDPs are hilariously underrated. I can not stress this enough: you must look for benchmarks for your CPU power draw. Even if you stumble upon a system power consumption, you can use that as a baseline if the build is anywhere near your own.
GPU
GPUs peak power draw are much more adherent to their rated TDP, but there's a reliable way to check it out. The Power Limit of every GPU is written in their own BIOS, of which we luckily have a database: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/ Search for Vendor, Brand and Model. Sometimes the entire range of the Power Limit is provided (minimum, stock, and maximum power draw), here's an example: RTX 2060. Sometimes it's just a single entry of Power Limit, and an Adjustment Range somewhere in there for you to figure out the minimum and maximum power draw, here's another example: RX 5600 XT. In this last example, you can read a nondescript "Total" under Power Limit and under Adjustment Range you can read "Power: -50% to +20%". This also gives you an accurate estimate of the extra power draw resulting from a software overclock.
A realistic static figure
Motherboard, RAMs, storage, fans and fans controllers, RGB, Water Pumps, WiFi, everything draws power, but it might be less than you would expect. Motherboards draw at most 10W, the biggest RAMs barely reach 10W per stick, SSD/M.2/HDD are in the ballpark of 2-5W. The peak power draw of all components of your system, except for CPU and GPU, is at the very most 50W. And that's a conservative figure, meant to account for the impossible case in which you somehow can push every single thing in your system to its limit. So there it is, add up the power draw from CPU and GPU, then the static figure (50W), and that's your baseline. Well done! Now add about 25% and up to 40% to that figure depending on your anxiety levels, and that's the capacity you need to look for in your PSU. Not convinced? Check for power consumption benchmarks from reputable sources, they list the entire system setup, and then test the power consumption of the whole system at the socket. Even if the entire system is not exactly the same as yours, you can scale things up or down intuitevely researching those components. Now, let's move onto PSUs. PSUs have 3 main characteristics:
Capacity
Efficiency
Stability (Quality)
The rated capacity expressed in Watts refers to the stable point of continuous power delivery. In truth, most PSUs will handle much more power than that, this limit is commonly referred to as Peak or Maximum Power. For example, my PSU is rated at 550W, but benchmarks have shown it's peak power to be over 700W. Good PSUs are very efficient. 80 Plus has taken it upon themselves to test the efficiency of most of the PSUs ever made. 80 Plus badges range from White (ew) to Titanium (ow). A 80 Plus Bronze is the absolute least I would settle for, but it's not a guarantee that you're buying a good PSU. Gold is a good standard, and most PSU that come with that badge are pretty good. Quantitative data is not enough, not every PSU is born equal, and they will differ for quality. You can't possibly figure out the quality of a PSU without buying, testing, benching, and taking it apart. Luckily, some people on the internet have already done that for you. Refer to the resources down here to research for a PSU that fits your needs. Resources:
Revisioned with the unvaluable help ofu/GallantGentleman, the conversation took place here. Case A case is not merely cosmetic. A good case will support multiple fan configurations, have great cable management, and most importantly will fit all your components. Once you account for all of that, you can pick a case based on your taste. So here's what to consider before you even begin to care about aesthetics.
Motherboard form factor Motherboards come in different form factor. From bigger to smaller size. extended ATX > ATX > Micro ATX > Mini ATX. Cases specs will always mention form factor. It is a good idea to pick a roomy case, as it hugely helps airflow.
Number of fan slots and length At the very least, there should be 2 front fan slots, and 1 rear fan slot. If you opt for a water cooler, you should keep in mind the length and width of the radiator, because it's going to be mounted on fan slots.
Cable management This is a tough one. You need to rely on reviews because it's impossible to tell how good a case is at cable management without trying to build anything into it first.
GPU length Specs will often mention the maximum GPU length. Do never exceed that and don't get to close to the limit either.
USB support matching your motherboard Crosscheck motherboard and case specs.
A few words or airflow. Positive and negative pressure are a measure of how much air is getting in your case versus how much air is getting out of your case. If you push more air out, it's negative pressure. If you push more air in, it's positive pressure. Based on my own tests and everything I could find on the internet about it, I firmly believe positive air pressure is better than negative air pressure. Not only dust filters are going to keep your case dust free for longer while you have positive pressure, it is also that much better for GPU temps. Negative air pressure is still valid, I simply think it is inferior.
Now Build It!
Let's help the guy who requested help earlier.
Hello, I own a 1440p/75hz monitor, I want to play AAA titles at ultra and my budget is about 1200€. I prefer AMD, want RGB (unless it's over my budget), and have a mid tower UL7R4 C00L PC case themed red. I also need some advice on water cooling.
He wants to play AAA/ultra at 1440p/75hz. Let's assume he lives in Europe. A 2060 Super or a 2070 super will do him good. Let's check benchmarks: https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3486-nvidia-rtx-2060-super-and-2070-super-review-benchmarks . Well, the 2060s could keep up with that for the time being, but if there's any budget headroom, a 2070 super would do him better. Now let's pair his GPU to a decent CPU. He needs to push at least 75 fps in the most demanding games. GPUcheck says R5 3600 will not bottleneck the 2070, which is cool, but gpucheck is good at a sight, you still need to check crossbenchmarks if you can find any, in this case you should look for the difference between 3600+2060s and 3600+2070s at 1440p. Here's something: 2070s + 3600 @ 2k*1440p (ultrawide) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H0xdYMInuiA2060s + 3600 @ 1440p https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vfc9cXWYtBk All fine. 2070s can handle 1440p/75hz like a breeze and will max anything you throw at it for the next 2-3 years. I'll just put the CPU and GPU in PCPartPicker, put a Tomahawk because it works with literally anything, and grab the best rams for a R5 3600 and the most reliable PSU I can find. https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/BNfG8M There, within budget. Does it even matter that there's no case? I mean you can stretch a bit, right? Right? Revisioned on 21/07/2020. Some formatting fix, expanded Thermal Solutions, revisioned the entire PSU section with the help of u/GallantGentleman. Thank you all for the support, criticism, advices, and the awards! This guide is now over, and hopefully it will help anyone who stumbles upon it.
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